TT 618 
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HE WELL-GROOMED MAN 
BEING A DISSERTATION 
ON M) ART IN DRESSJft J^ 






Price, Twenty-five Cents 



" But ivith thy tailor . . . thou art his creature^ 
And did he notj each mornings ne-tv create thee^ 
Thou'dst he forgotten. 




IHE WELL-GROOMED MAN 
BEING A DISSERTATION 
ON Jt^ ART IN DRESS>^*^ 



By Harold de Fontenoy Vincent. 



Published by 
M. B. Hilly 
Chicago . . . 




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COPlfRIGHT 

1895 
BY M. B. HILLY 



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PRELUDE 

AN differs from other animals in being 
born naked. The first thing to do with 
him when he arrives is to clothe liim. 
From that moment he is an object 
lesson, representing somebody's idea of 
Art in Dress. When he reaches an age at which he is 
capable of controlling his own affairs the world begins 
to estimate his character and his talents by tiie man- 
ner in which he drapes himself. Apostles of Error 
may endeavor to teach him that a man is not to be 
judged by the coat he wears, but he soon discovers 
that they are false prophets, uttering lies. 

Not only are men judged by the coats they wear, but 
by the hats, the shoes, tiie shirts, the tics, the jewelry, 
and indeed, aside from the countenance, there is no 
other means available to us for reading tiie characters 
of the vast majority of those we meet in the various 
walks of life The king on his throne, the minister 
in his pulpit, the advocate at the bar, the business man 
at his desk, the solicitor entering your office, the 
applicant for employment, is instantly put on trial on 
the circumstantial evidence of his apparel. 

Aside from a man's moral caliber and mental 
acumen there is no other element in his personal 
make-up that is half so essential to his success in lite 
as the faculty of arraying himself in proper attire. 
The following pages were written with the intention 
of affording a few useful and practical suggestions to 
those who appreciate the value of correct dress, and 
who desire to be classed with that fortunate individual 
described as the well-groomed man. 



THE CLOTHES PROPER. 




Thephrase, "art in dress," stands 
for an idea, which, in the course of 
time, will be represented by a single 
word, just as "art in sound har- 
mony" is represented by the word 
music," and "art in mimicry" by 
the word "drama." and 
"art in pictorial represen- 
^^attioQ ' by the word 
"painting." Perhaps the 
phrase will reduce itself to 
the simple word "dress," 
which will indicate a dis- 
tinct branch of art, and in mentioning the accom- 
plishments of a cultured individual we will use the 
terms "music," "painting," "sculpture" and "dress." 
Certainly if "dress" means anything more than the 
original fig leaf it is an art — high art — nay, the high- 
est of all human arts. The tailor who is not an artist 
is unworthy to be called a tailor. He is simply a 
mechanic, working in cloth instead of iron — making 
garments instead of steel rails. His highest thought 
is to cover his customers with a certain amount of 
cotton or woolen fabric, sd designed as to conceal the 
most surface at the least cost. When he turns out a 
new suit it may be a most perfect fit from the ' 'papar- 



on-the-wall" standpoint, but its wearer will lack tli«* 
distinction that attaches to the man \vhc\se tailor 
studies his customer as a sculptor does his model. 

If a man wishes to adorn his library with a bronze 
bust of his grandsire he does not go to a blacksmith, 
no matter how deft the disciple of Vulcan may be 
with his hammer, but he seeks out the genius whose 
brow is set toward the proudest peak of high Olympus 
and whose soul is attuned to the music of Elysinm. 

Art laughs at rules, and nowhere is this so true as 
in the tailor shop. Among all the millions of human 
beings on the earth, there are no two exactly alike, 
and every variety of humanity requires its particular 
variety of dress. The artistic tailor treats each 
separate patron as a distinct individuality, talks 
to him about the weather, the most popular play, 
the latest sensation, and, to use a colloquial ex- 
pression, "sizes him up," not only physically, but 
intellectually, studies his manner, his favorite atti- 
tudes, and all those little things that appear so insig- 
nificant in themselves and yet play such an impor- 
tant part in a man's character. When these various 
dimensions are taken the tailor is ready to talk about 
patterns, styles, etc., and when the new suit is com- 
plete, its individuality will be in perfect harmony 
with that of its wearer, and there will be none of 
those laughable incongruities that so often make a 
man an object of ridicule even among his friends 

A really well dressed, intelligent man is a prince 
wherever he goes. Not a prince in disguise, as in 
the fairy books, but a real prince among his fellow- 

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men, be they friends or strangers. He commands 
attention and consideration where others would hava 
to beg for them. But one of the powers behind the 
throne of his authority is the man who dressed him. 
The artistic tailor is the real autocrat of civilization. 
The world kneels at the feet of those who wear the 
clothes he makes, but without a kingmaker there 
would be no king. 

Now it does not follow that a well-dressed man is 
necessarily an expensively-dressed man. Indeed the 
man of limited means is the one of all others to avail 
himself of the highest sartorial talent. It is possible 
for a Comanche Indian, with nothing but a simple 
blanket, to be more tastefully arrayed than a Fifth 
Avenue aristocrat. This would be the case if the 
blanket were hung and draped by an artist and the 
costume of the wealthy Caucasian were contrived and 
executed by a tailor of the mechanical sort. 

So much by way of general observation. Coming 
down to particulars, the wardrobe may be treated 
as subject to the conditions of tune and occasion. 
That is to say, the apparel is governed first by the 
time of day when it is to be worn — morning, after- 
noon or evening; secondly, by the occasion; that is, 
whether it is to be worn at a funeral, a wedding, or 
a game of golf. 

The regulations as to time are simple. In the 
morning the three-button cutaway is worn; in the 
afternoon the double-breasted frock, and in the even- 
ing the full dress. The cutaway, however, is rarely 
out of place before dark. Indeed, if a man can 

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afford but one style of coat, the last-mentioned is the 
one he should wear, for he will seldom be called to 
account for it. 

Next in importance to iiuic is ooasiofi, and hero 
is a field so wide that volumes might easily be 
written without exhausting it. Here is where a man 
learns to appreciate the value ot his tailor — that is. 
it he is worthy of appreciation — and here is where I 
am going to talk to my readers somewhat confiden- 
tially. Don't be led away by the idea that fashions 
are made in Paris or London or New York or Chi- 
cago or Oshkosh. The general drift of style emanates 
from that ineffable somewhere whence cometh the 
wind that bloweth where it listeth. Who wrote the 
joke over which I laughed at the club last night? 
Do I care whether it originated in St. Petersburg or 
Singapore or St. Charlos solongas it made me smile? 
Somewhere in this world of ours 
there is a power, subtle 'and un- 
seen, that is decreeing what shall 
be the shape of my hat next 
spring and whether my waist- 
coat shall be cut low or cut 
high. I know not where that 
power resides, any more than I 
know where sits the ruler of those 
whirling spheres that we call 
stars, but I know that when the 
decree is issued it is law — stern, 
irrevocable law My only al- 
ternative is to obey it. 




My hatter must find me a hat of proper shape that 
will fit my head; but he cannot stop there. He must 
discover whether I am tall or short; whether I am 
sharp-featured or bullet-headed; whether I incline 
to drabs or blues, and all that. 

So with my tailor. He learns from his spring and 
summer and autumn and winter fashion ^ates what 
is to be the outline of gentlemen's attire for the sea- 
son, but there are a thousand considerations to be 
weighed and determined before he is ready to decide 
on the details of my case. 

The point I am trying to make plain is this: 
I should leave it all to my tailor. If I become 
satisfied he is incompetent, I will get another; 
but so long as he is my tailor I will leave it 
to him. I will bear in mind that he is my tailor, 
and that his advice is as much to be heeded as is that 
of my lawyer, my doctor, my music teacher, my 
dancing master, or anyone else whom I engage to see 
that I am properly equipped for the duties, amenities 
and responsibilities of life. 

Keeping this in mind, then, that my tailor is in- 
vincible in his domain, I am at liberty to inquire as 
to the general requirements of "dress." I find at 
the outset that my first duty is to pay my bills 
promptly. Otherwise I get into my tailor's debt and 
he dresses me in accordance with his estimate of me. 
He regards me as a "beat" and, without intending 
to do it, he turns me out a walking advertisement of 
my own impecuniosity. But, having avoided this 
rock, I find my tailor to be a source of information of 



which I am always glad to avail myself. He tells 
me, for example — 

That I may wear colored shirts in the afternoon in 
town. 

That they should be of pink, blue or heliotrope 
pattern, or with small colored figures, with white 
standing collar attached. 

That there are are only four occasions, with modi- 
fications, when frock coats may be worn before noon. 
These are morning weddings, funerals, Sunday 
morning church services and before the bar of the 
higher courts. 

That a very conservative costume is a black vicuna 
or unfinished rough frock coat and waistcoat, dari' 
trousers of deep and almost black, gray or blue, or 
drab with small stripe pattern, patent leather buttoned 
walking boots, dark hose, standing straight collar 

dark tie, brown gloves, tall straight hat. 

That the costume for an afternoon at home wed- 
ding is a frock coat, waistcoat of the same material, 
gray or li.^ht trousers, patent leather shoes, white 
tie, with the stiff standing collar and pearl gloves. 

That a dress coat should be made of unfinished 
worsted, and should be cut with a notch in the 
collar. 

That the coat should tit the figure well in front at 
the waist. 

That the trousers should be cut fairly large at the 
hips, tapering at the knee and bottom, and avoiding 
all spring at the bottom, the sides of the trousers 
being finished with two narrow braids. 



That a frock coat should be made of a black or of 
a dark mixture of Oxford, lambswool, or rough 
worsted. 

That the coat should be cut fairly low at the front 
of the collar, the lapel opening well in front, show- 
ing the shirt at both sides of the tie. 

That the coat should button with three buttons. 

That the waist should be of medium length and the 
skirt reaching to the knee. 

That the sleeve should be cut square at the cuff 
and be finished with two or three buttons and but- 
ton-holes. 

That the silk on the lapel should reach to the but- 
ton hole. 

That the waistcoat or vest may be cut either single 
or double breasted. 

That the trousers may be fairly loose at the hips 
and hugging the shoe at the bottom. 

That a morning coat, suitable for lounging or 
negligee wear, is cut in English shooting coat style, 
with flaps, under which are roomy pockets. For 
slender men it can be made to button all the way to 
the waist, but for those that are stout it is better to 
button only the three buttons, cutting away the extra 
cloth gracefully from the third button to the bottom 
of the skirt. 

That the most popular overcoat is the Chesterfield, 
or fly-front sack, made from a large variety of fabrics, 
chief among which are moderately rough mixtures 
in lambswools, cheviots, worsteds and worsted- 
vicunas in browns, blues, black-blues and mixtures, 

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wool fabrics, kerseys, meltons, beavers, fur beavers, 
and other soft and thick fabrics. 

That the Covert overcoat, for fall and spring 
wear, will be worn chiefly by young men. It is made 
from the cloth from which it derives its name and is 
only long enough to cover a sack or short business 
cutaway, and is made from heavier material than 
formerly. 

That many men who dress wt-ll wear the box over- 
coat made from smooth fabrics and of ample pro- 
portions. 

That the most dressy overcoat for day wear is the 
Surtout. It is somewhat expensive, and is made 
from soft, dressy fabrics or smooth-faced materials, 
with stitched or corded edges if made from the first, 
but always with raw, double-stitched edges if made 
from the second. 

That the Inverness has no rival of any consequence 
for wear over an evening dress suit. It is made from 
medium weight cheviot or vicuna, is very full both 
back and front, and the cape covers both hands. 

That the fur-trimmed overcoat is always fashion- 
able — and costly. It is made of smooth-faced 
fabrics, is of a moderately loose sack in style, and 
admits of fancy linings. 

That the e\ ening dress coat for the incoming sea- 
son (meaning the season of ISHo-ti) will be shorter, 
and will have a more clearly defined skirt bottom 
than heretofore, and the peaked lapel style will have 
a much longer collar. The materials will remain 
about the same as heretofore, but, in addition to the 

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suit, a white vest of silk or marseilles will usually be 
in order. The peaked lapel style of coat will be 
more favored than the shawl-roll style, though the 
latter will be quite popular, especially with young 
men. The vest, if of the same material as the coat, 
will be single-breasted. The edges will be finished 
to match those of the coat. It will, however, gen- 
erally be made double-breasted, especially if the 
material be silk or marseilles, to close with three 
buttons, and to have a wide shield-shaped opening 
and a plain collar of medium width. The trousers 
will average eighteen to nineteen inches at the knee 
and sixteen and a half to seventeen and a half at the 
bottom. They will have scarcely any spring, and 
the side seams will be finished with fancy braid, as a 
rule, although it will be correct and in good taste to 
finish them to match the edges of the coat, if these 
are corded or cord-bound. The Tuxedo, or dress 
sack, is complementary to the dress suit and is much 
worn at stag dinners, when full dress is permissible, 
but not imperative, and as a semi-negligee coat when 
the rest of the costume is correct for evening dress. 
It is a shapely sack, averaging thirty inches in length, 
and has an all silk roll, either of the shawl form or 
with peaked lapel. 

"What about the double-breasted frock suit ?" 
And this is what Messrs. Franche and Wallin, of the 
tailoring establishment of the Franche-Wallin Co., 
said: "For day dress and for half dress the coat of 
the double breasted frock will average 19 and 40 
inches in length for a man whose height is five feet 

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ten inches. It will have shoulders of natural width, 
and as square in effect as they can be without pad- 
ding, and the side seams will be well curved. The 
skirt will have considerable fulness at the top to 
define the hips, and will be of liberal width at the 
bottom, and have the back plaits sharply creased. 
The vest, if single-breasted, will have five buttons 
and a notched collar; if double-breasted, four but- 
tons and well-peaked lapels. The trousers will av- 
erage 18 ji inches at the knee and 10^4 at the bottom, 
being well hollowed over the instep and having 
merely a suggestion of a spring." 

Messrs. Franche and Wallin discoursed somewhat 
on the cutaway frock suit thus: "The same materials 
will be used for these as for double-breasted frock 
suits for gay dress and genteel business wear; but for 
the latter, fancy suitings of quiet design will also be 
|x>pular, and for general business, an almost infinite 
variety of fancy fabrics, worsteds, cheviots, home- 
spuns, tweeds, blarneys, etc. The three-button cut- 
away will be as popular for genteel business wear as 
ever, but for day dress it is probably losing caste, as 
it is not so genteel in appearance as the double- 
breasted frock. The one-button cutaway, Messrs. 
Franche and Wallin think, will, asusual, beconsider- 
ably fancied by stout, corpulent men, but not by 
others. 

The vest to be worn with a cuta\4ay frock suit is a 
single-breasted affair, made from the same material 
as the coat or from a fancy vesting; but, they think, a 
double-breasted vest of a fancy vesting will not only 

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be correct, but will be considered the "swell" thing 
by many. The trousers, Messrs. Franche and Wallin 
say, will be the same as for the double-breasted frock 
suit, except for general business wear, when there 
will be a slight modification as to width of knee and 
bottom. 

Coming down to the sack suit, the most popular 
styles will be the four-button cutaway and the double- 
breasted sack, made from fancy cheviots, large in- 
visible plaids and black and blue cheviots, basket 
cloths and twills in Scotch and English fabrics. 

The three-button cutaway, made of fancy materials 
for business wear, is still in favor; it is made with 
long waist and short skirt with side pockets and flaps 
and ticket pocket. It is made from the same mate- 
rials as the sack business suit. 

"But you are too technical," say I, to the tailors; 
"you talk as if I were familiar with all the nomen- 
clature of your craft; I know nothing of 'facings' 
and ' colorings,' and all that, but I do want to know 
what to wear and when to wear it," and they observe 
as follows: 

"Well, my dear sir, I am merely trying to make 
you acquainted with the rudiments of dress, so that 
you may speak intelligently to your tailor. The 
tailor who honors his calling will be delighted to 
converse with a customer who is familiar with the 
outlines of his art. You should study the matter of 
facings and edgings and linings and trimmings and 
tabrics and patterns, and be able to engage your 
tailor in an intelligent discussion of the subject in 

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hand. You will finJ it to your advantage to master 
the fundamentals of dress, and leave the details to 
him in whose hands are the destinies of so many hu- 
man beings who aspire to the condition of the well- 
dressed man." 

"Well," I reply, "I admit your superiority of 
judgment as to what I should do; but can't you ad- 
vise me as to a few of the things I should not do ? * 

• Don't goon a cycling tour with a frock coat. Don't 
wear a silk hat with a sack coat suit. Don't 
go yachting in a victoria. Don t permit your shoes 
to go unpolished on a pleasant day. Don't wear a 
silk dress hat with patches on your shoes, and don't 
wear shoes that are too small for your feet. Big feet 
need big shoes. Don't attempt to be fashionably 
dressed by cheap tailors. Don't put all your allow- 
ance outside; to be well dressed your entire outfit 
should harmonize. Don't put cost before cut; the 
finest clothes are spoiled by a misfit. Don't neglect 
quality for the sake of quantity; one good suit is bet- 
ter than two poor ones. Don't forget that though a 
Derby hat becomes most men, it never looks well 
when worn with an evening dress suit, or a frock 
suit. Don't forget that good looks will never atone 
for untidiness nor uncleanliness. Don't dress your 
head at the expense of your hands and feet. Don't 
be outre in dress, but let your attire be con- 
spicuous by its neatness and the elegance of the 
fabrics worn. Don't spend your money foolishly, 
and then credit your limited purse with your shabby 
appearance. Don't imagine that you can defy styles 

13 



and fashions and retain the respect of well-dressed 
men. Don't wear white shirts, cuffs and collars, 
unless they are white. Don't dictate styles to your 
tailor, for if he understands his business, he is better 
informed than yourself on such matters. Don't wear 
knickerbockers in the counting room, and take off your 
tan shoes when you put on your frock coat. These 
and countless other don'ts should be carefully adhered 
to if one does not wished to be sneered at," 

THE TAILOR. 

A tailoring establishment to be well managed, 
should have, first, men who are artistic in their 
tastes; who, when they look over the samples of 
fabrics shown by the mills, will be able to pick 
the choicest patterns and the most durable cloths 
from the variegated array exposed for their inspec- 
tion. They should be able to tell almost at a glance 
what will suit their customers. 

There is such a place in Chicago, and one can 
can make no mistake on these points if he places 
the making of his clothes in the charge of such an 
establishment as that of the Franche-Wallin Co., 
Michigan Ave. and Adams St., northeast corner. 



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THE HABERDASHERY. 

MAN may be ever so well dressed as to 
hats and shoes and clothes, but if the 
small belongings of his dress are lackey 
it destroys the effect of his whole appear- 
-J anceand this is where one is lent a help, 
ing hand by one's haberdasher. There is store after 
store where separate articles of beautiful furnishings 
for men are shown, but where you are greeted on 
entering by a cub of a boy, who has not reached the 
age where he would appreciate harmony in color. 
He can sell a collar or a pair of cuffs, but when it 
comes to fancy colored articles, such as neckwear 
and shirts, he does not know what to show you-- 
he has absolutely no idea what would look well on 
you, and he might better be keeping someone's 
books. 

I depend as much on the good judgment of my 
haberdasher as I do my tailor or ray hatter or my 
shoemaker. The haberdasher knows about the color 
of the clothes I wear. He knows the color of tie or 
shirt that harmonizes with my coat and my com- 
plexion. He will not turn me out on the street with 
a red necktie for wear with a blue suit. If I have 
clothes of a green mixture he will not show me a 
shirt or a tie that is not modest and plain. If I have 
red, sandy hair he will not show me blues or greens 
or pinks He sizes me up completely and picks out for 
me what I should wear. As to the various articles 
for men's wear the coming season we will talk first 



ABOUT THE SHIRT. 

The shirt to be worn with the full dress is still 
the plain linen with long and wide bosom, with col- 
lar and cuffs attached. Indeed, every shirt should 
have the collar and cuffs attached, though this is dis- 
regarded by a very large number of men who dress 
well, on account of its seeming im.practicability, and 
yet what a nuisance to be continually wrestling with 
one's collar and collar button and one's cuffs. It is 
really less bothersome to have one's shirt made com- 
plete than to have it m ade in sections. 

The shirt for business wear may be either the 
plain white or the fancy colored starched shirt with 
white collar and fancy cuffs attached, though some 
are made without attached collars. This shirt should 
be made comfortable and with the short bosom, either 
open the full length of the front after the coat pat- 
tern, or, if one desires to wear the screw stud, open 
front and back to the waist. 

The negligee shirt, will be worn to a great extent 
next season, the patterns to be in stripes and 
checks and, according to Harshberger, the Palmer 
House haberdasher, something decidedly novel is 
promised, though he is not ready to give out the de- 
tails of the future styles at this writing. 

COLLARS. 

There will be no radical change 
in the detached collars and cuffs 
this season as compared with the 
ones just past. For full dress 
the correct thing is the straight 
collar that meets in front, and the 
18 




The Polo Collar. 



other style thai lapsover a bit at the button. These 
are made invaried heights to suit the wearer. The 
high band Polo collar will be worn for full dress this 
winter to a greater extent than last season. For 
street wear the one with the broken point will be in 
favor. The high band Polo turn down will be the 
popular collar for negligee wear. 

THE CUFFS. 

The cuffs will remain about the same as last sea- 
son, being the popular Tally-ho shape in the square 
corner link. 

THE GLOVES. 

The gloves are shown in light tan shades, together 
with some shades of red that have held favor for 
several seasons past. The light shades will be most 
worn. 

THE NECKWEAR. 

The uiost extreme change in neckwear this season 
is in the shape of the De Joinville. The knot is 
made very much larger than for a few seasons past, 
and the small knot will not be worn by fashionably 
dressed men. This innovation secerns to be exclu- 
sive with Harshberger at the time we go to press. 
The De Joinville in the large bows is shown in 
various colors, among which are some j)retty new 
shades of blue. 

The Ascot scarf will come again into popularity 
this season after a rest of some time. The popular 
Hay market shape will be worn by men who do not 
care to take trouble to tie the Ascot themselves. 

19 



The full dress tie this season will be the straight 
white tie with plain ends, to be tied in bow shape by 
the wearer, ths tie being much narrower in width 
than we have seen for some seasons past. 

During the fall season the colored bows will retain 
the favor accorded them during the summer, but the 
tendency is to shorten the bow, thereby giving it a 
stubby appearance. They will be worn with the 
Polo collar. 

THE HOSIERY. 

In hosiery the tendency is toward fancy effects. 
These are taking favor from the plain blacks which 
have held sway so long. One of the most decidedly 
new things in hose is the Tartan plaids. 

THE UNDERWEAR. 

In underwear more silk mixtures are shown this 
season than on former occasions. Blues and tauo 
will be the reigning colors, though many high novel- 
ties in mixtures of heliotrope and gray silk will be 
worn. 

NIGHTROBES AND PAJAMAS. 

Robes de nuit are still made of zephyrs and some 
fancy woven materials. They are very pretty this 
season as seen in the shop windows. 

HANDKERCHIEFS, 

English and French novelties are shown in linens 
with pretty fancy borders. Some very swell things 
are shown in "all over" designs of various shades of 
blues, redr>, blacks, heliotrope and what not. 

90 




THE HAT. 

FIND tliat the world in estimating a 
man from his dress is pretty sure to 
acUipt the familiar method of "playing 
bcith ends against the middle." First 
the hat, then the shcu-s and then the 
clothing proper. 

A few years ago somebody wrote a song entitled, 
"Where Did You Get That Hat?" The alacrity with 
which the public apprehended the humor of the piece 
indicated the prominence of the headgear as a dis- 
tinct feature of a man's attire. I confess I am not al- 
ways able to recall the particular style of coat, waist- 
coat, trousers, or tie worn by the friend I met a week 
ai;o, but the style of his hat is irrevocably fixed in 
my memory. His image, that I conjure up when I 
reavl of his marriage or death or promotion, will be 
characterized chiefly by the hat he wore when last I 
saw him. If he was a heavy sat man and wore a 
brim that was so narrow as to be out of proportion 
to his girth I can never cherish for him that respect 
that is due to the man who attends to the harmony 
of his make-up. 

Silk hats must be worn on all occasions with full 
evening dress, or with Prince Albert frock or cuta- 
way coat — never with a box coat or Tuxedo dress. 
The Derby or soft Alpine shapes are best form with 
Tuxedo dress coats or business sacks. The Derby 
may be worn with anything but full evening dress 
The silk hats this season 'are shown in three widths 
of brim. The 2i inch brim with a 6^*^ inch 

«1 



crown is for well proportioned men. For stout men 
the brim should be 2[ and the crown G^^g. For 
young men the width of brim should be 2 inches and 
the crown same as above. I get these figures from 
Mr. Shayne, who is showing the Knox hat. 

The Derby 5| inch crown and 2^ and 2\ inch brim 
are the correct dimensions for ordinary sized men this 
season. In the medium height crown there are always 
two widths of brim. These are shown in blacks and 
browns this season, the former for semi- dress or 
business and the latter for business only. 

Many men wear the pearl Fedora soft hat with 
full evening dress. They have come into use owing 
to the inadequate accommodations at large balls and 
receptions. 

The really proper hat for such occasions is the 
"opera crush,'' which should be carried in the hand 
during the progress of the reception or ball, but it 
should never be worn with a Tuxedo or Prince Albert. 
For morning either the soft hat or the Derby is worn. 
The soft hat is often worn for a semi-dress hat, 

The golf cap with full top iias been popular this 
season and will, Mr. Shayne thinks, continue in 
favor next year. It is used in golf and bicycling 
and some are worn by men' in the saddle. 

The Knox hats shown this season by John I. 
Shayne & Co., 191-193 State St., who are the sole 
agents in Chicago, are very shapely and if possible 
more graceful than last season. No well dressed 
man can make a mistake in his head dress if he 
selects a Knox hat. 

28 




THE SHOES. 
AM inclined to the opinion that no other 
handicraft can number for itself so 
many eminent names as that of the shoe- 
maker. In an old romance a certain 
prince of the name of Crispin is repre- 
sented as being a maker of shoes. 

A good-sized volume might be filled with the names 
and exploits of shoemakers. There is a tradition 
that the most illustrious of the royal blood of Spain, 
in Spain's illustrious day, flowed originally from the 
veins of a shoemaker of Veyros, a town in Portugal. 
I may remark in passing, that shoemakers have 
played a great part in the pages of English poets and 
novelists, especially in the works of Shakespeare, 
Lord Lytton, George McDonald and Charles Dick- 
ens. 

Hans Sach, the Nuremberg poet; Jacob Boehmen, 
the mystical philosopher of Gorlitz; George Fox, who 
founded the Society of Friends, and our own Roger 
Sherman, were all shoemakers. 

So much for the calling. Coming down to the 
shoe itself there is hardly one article of apparel 
that more cler rly indicates the well-groomed man 
than his footwear. When you see a man with neatly 
dressed feet you may be sure he has some character. 
An ill-fitting shoe will change one's whole bearing, 
and as one is judged frequently by the way he 
" steps off" one should find a good shoemaker. 

Of the particular shoes worn today the russet shoe 
has attained a great degree of popularity and it 

S3 



may be expected to be in favor for summer wear for 
a long time to come. The extremely pointed toes are 
gradually yielding to more conservative shapes. 

DeMuth, who sells Hanan's shoes at 217 State St., 
tells me that winter tans, with ex' a heavy soles and 
calf lining, will be worn to some extent this year and 
that they will have the straight tip Paris and London 
toe. He says for a well-dressed gentleman's business 
shoe, the enamel, for winter, with double sole or 
cork sole, does away with the necessity of wearing 
rubbers. These are all made with tips. 

The staples in calfskin shoes, always desirable for 
ordinary wear, range from $;5 to S7 in price. 

Young men of the smart set who adhere strictly to 
new modes, will find the Pekin and the Tokio to their 
liking. They are made after the oriental fashion, 
with curved toe, pointed with band tip. These are 
the principal novelties of the season. 

For evening dress, patent leather pumps have been 
much in favor of late. However, the patent leather 
cloth top congress gaiter, with medium plain toe, re- 
mains the reigning style. Cloth top buttons, same 
toe, are also much worn. For afternoon dress the 
kid top, patent leather, button gaiter is still the cor- 
rect thing.J 

The popularity of golfing and bicycling has neces- 
sitated especial attention being given to these sub- 
jects by the shoemakers. Though some golf players 
"wear the regular high brown leather legging, a can- 
vas legging, buttoned at the side, with a pointed 
back reaching about to the calf, seems to be the 

24 



proper thing. Under tliis a heavy laced sh(je with 
nails is worn. 

For bicycling, black kangaroo and tan colored 
Russian calf shoes are generally favored. The soles 
are grooved so that they \Till not slip off the prdals 

Boots are n«ver worn except in the country or for 
riding purposes. The correct thing in riding boots 
js patent leather with English enamel leg. 

The Venetian slipper, high cut, with elastic sides, 
is still popular and is likely to remain so on account 
of its ease and comfort. It is made in black, maroon, 
or tan colored goat and vici kid. 

Patent leather pumps for evening dress should be 
cut low so as to show the stocking. 

Patent leather shoes are now very generally worn 
during all seasons excepting extremely cold and in- 
clement weather, when grained leather shoes are 
substituted. 




a.'i 




THE BATH. 
N important adjunct of a well dressed 
man's equipment is the bath. The 
Turkish bath is the highest develop- 
ment of the cleansing process. Hot air 
applied to the surface of the body causes 
an evaporation of moisture and this results in opening 
the pores and eliminating the impurities of the 
system through the proper channel. The blood is 
called to the surface and danger of congestion is 
avoided. I am aware that physicians sometimes 
advise their patients not to take Turkish baths, but ex- 
perienced bath men often administer two baths a day 
to weak patients with the best results. The fact is, 
the Turkish bath is a tonic, as experience has proven. 
Another bugaboo urged against the Turkish bath is 
the alleged danger of taking cold. This, too, is 
simply somebody's theory, which will not stand the 
test of experience. If the bath is properly gone 
through with there is not the tenth part of the danger 
there was before. Notwithstanding the excessive 
sweating, the cooling off process has closed the pores 
with the circulation at the surface. The bather, if 
he cannot endure the heat at first, should go into the 
cooling room for a few moments and gradually 
accustom himself to it. He may drink all the cold 
water he wants. Do not hurry the cooling process 
and do not dress until dry. Avoid the steam bath, 
because, like the hot water bath, it is debilitating. 

A. Lincoln McCreary, of the Lafayette Turkish 
Baths, at 180 Wabash avenue, is one of the best 
authorities on this subject and his establishment is 
patronized by the best people in Chicago. ^ 
^ 26 




FASHIONABLE LIVERY. 

« jHE well groomed man is fortunate if he 
has his own stables and turnouts, but this 
is often not the case. In that event he 
should find an establishment patronized 
by fashionable and well bred people. 
This will insure him against imposition, for a stable 
that caters to high c'ass trade is scrupulously careful 
of the equipages it sends out. The well known firm 
of (r. W. Leihy Sc Son is an institution of this sort. 
It has lately moved into its new quarters at Thirteenth 
Street and Wabash Avenue Its place is known as 
the Fashion Stables, and it claims to have the best line 
of livery that money can buy. Its finer rigs all have 
rubber tires and are as near like private rigs as can be 
made. They include rubber tire broughams, cabs, 
coaches, carriages, victorias, spider phaetons, traps 
and runabouts. The harness is up-to-date, and of the 
finest make. The stable is 75 by 155 feet, consisting 
of a large, well lighted, and well ventilated carriage 
room and a stable department with sixty good sized 
stalls with plenty of light, pure air and a perfect drain- 
age system, all on the ground floor. In connection 
with the stables a fine line of coach horses, double or 
single, is always on sale at reasonable prices. 



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THE LAUNDRY 
MONG the eiysential requisites of the well- 
groomed man are clean, well starched 
linens, and while it would seem an easy 
matter to find an agency to properly do 
=* this service, it is seldom one sees a man 
who is perfectly satisfied with the treatment of his 
starched apparel. 

A new shirt perhaps sent to the laundry for the first 
time is returned, broken at the button-hole, the neck 
band is flattened out even with the bosom, and cut at 
the edges. The bosom is pulled out of shape and 
bulges in front. His cuffs and other articles have 
large blots of ink, persumably placed there for identifi- 
cation when they are returned to the laundry. These 
things happen every week, and yet they may be 
avoided if one seeks an establishment where men in 
charge appreciate these draw-backs. 
• All important is the question of how and where to 
have ones clothes cleaned, and the writer has discover- 
ed a place where the management is scrupulous on 
these points. It is an institution that numbers among 
its patrons perhaps more men who are fastidious on 
the laundrying of their clothes than any other in the 
city. They will do your work by hand, with a 
domestic finish. The writer can endorse the efforts 
to please, made by The Good Luck Laundry, of 
which Mr. John Dixey is the proprietor. He will be 
glad to respond to a request to call, addressed either 
to 5209-52 1 1 Lake Ave., or to 2218 Wabash Ave. 
Telephone 165 South, or 42 Oakland. 

2S 



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Chicago^ Illinois.. 



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Water Colors, and Artists' Drawings 

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